Friday 29 April 2011

6 weeks!

My, oh how life taken a nice little turn for the better this past week. Since I was given the green flag to start climbing again I have already been 3 times this week, spending approx 4 hours at the gym, climbing grades of 5.9 to 10a/b (top rope for now), on about 6-7 routes. Things that have resolved since re-climbing:
  • right hip pain *tick*
  • right hip stiffness and locking *tick*
  • knee pain *tick* 
  • mood swings and throwing tantrums in attempt to hold Kevin back from going out and having fun without me *tick*
Things that have improved since climbing:
  • forearm strength. Its amazing how quickly they re-conditioned to the effort imposed on them whilst hanging with one hand and balancing on a foot trying to undo un-clip from the rope 
  • happiness: my cheekbones hurt daily from smiling
  • right quad strength, most notable when I am "high stepping" and can slowly but confidently push my body upwards from stepping up high 
  • personal relationship: yes, the competitive aspect of our relationship can restart 
I have especially noticed that my scapular muscles and hip flexors are more open and relaxed, which makes you walk with good alignment and feeling tight throughout the body. What else....did I mention that I just feel fantastic? My spirits are happy, my mood is calm, I don't burst into random tears with "can't live if living is without you" screaming in the back of my head when looking down at my pudgy knee; and I have my stamina back, which is highly evident from now beng able to work a 8 hour day in the office, go climbing for 4 hours, and come home for some "adult cuddling" that doesn't last for 3 seconds (I'm being careful what I say here because I think my mum and dad still look at this blog).

Photo time:
No I am not naked but I bet you wish I was...
See? I'm wearing high 70's looking running pants although I'm not allowed to run...
Slight bruising but otherwise ok
Physio program at 6 week mark for the knee:
  • 30 min, 5-6 days a week, spin bike with resistance. I listen to my ipod and run my own spin class depending on the tune. Slow tune = turn up resistance and bike up the hill; fast tune with heavy runs, = sprints. I used to take spin classes when I was in uni so this exercise is so much fun for me. Plus, the knee feels amazing when I am standing up on the bike peddling up the hill
  • indoor rock climbing on top rope, 5.9-10a/b 6-7 routes. Some overhung with juggy holds, but mainly climb to get mileage 
Stretches:
  • hip flexors: warrior with exercise ball in between legs to balance
  • hamstrings, quads, and calves with yoga strap
  • foam roll: I lie over the foam and roll my hips and quads over. Amazing self massage for my quad
Strength:
  • physio ball wall squats with "push press" using medicine ball: 3x10-20 reps 
  • leg squat/press: 3 sets x10-20 reps with heavier weight (right now I am at 75lb)
  • calf and toe raises
  • using aerobic steps, step ups/downs: 2x8-10 reps. Bad foot leads up. I am now balancing on the right foot and squating on it...if that makes sense. 
  • physio ball hamstring curls: 3x10-20 reps
And don't forget upper body; I'm sticking with my negative resistance training to re-condition my climbing muscles, however I am very happy to say that they really hadn't left me after 4 months off climbing. The little girl muscles are still there, and are out and proud when climbing. It really did make a difference with negative resistance training during the "prehab" state. To tell you the truth, I feel quite light-footed climbing up those walls, and free in the mind...yes, I think of nothing when climbing and ain't that the best, especially after a mentally exhausting day in the workplace? 

Go climb people! 

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